The monocled cobra is a poisonous snake that is indigenous to South and Southeast Asia. It can be yellow, brown, gray, or even blackish. The hood of this snake is monocellate, or O-shaped.
It is difficult to provide for this animal in captivity. For the snakes to survive, the climate must be tropical with stable temperatures and humidity. The monocled cobra needs a huge habitat with plenty of room to roam about because it is so massive. These snakes can bite you with venom, which makes them hazardous as well.
Overview of the Monocled Cobra
| Typical name | Indian spitting cobra, monocled cobra, and monocellate cobra |
| Scientific name | Naja kaouthia |
| Natural habitat | South and Southeast Asia: Grasslands, scrublands, swamps, forests, and farmlands |
| Adult size | 48–75 inches |
| Average lifespan | 13–20 years |
| Diet | Carnivore |
| Housing | 40 gallons minimum, 74-82 °F, and 50% to 60% humidity |
| Experience level | Moderate |
Origin
South and Southeast Asia are the most prevalent locations for the monocled cobra (Naja kaouthia). Scrublands, grasslands, paddy fields, woodlands, swamps, and agricultural lands, as well as urban areas, are the snake’s native habitats.
Although these snakes can adapt to a variety of climatic conditions and habitats, they choose those near bodies of water. The species is terrestrial and is most active during dusk and dawn.
See more: Top 20 most venomous snakes: Deadliest Snakes Ranked By Venom
Manifestation and conduct
The monocled cobra gets its name from the monocellate, a round pattern on its hood. The Indian or spectacled cobra, which has a distinct pattern on the rear of its head, should not be mistaken with the snake.
The cross bands of monocled cobras may be distinct or ragged, and they may be black, gray, yellow, olive, brownish, or a mixture of several of these hues. The snakes have sand-colored bellies and two black patches on the undersides of their hoods.
The fixed anterior fangs of the cobra are moderately designed for spitting and pump poison into its prey.
The colors of young monocled cobras are darker and more vivid than those of older snakes. Males and females are identical in terms of color and pattern.
Size and Duration
The length of an adult monocled cobra ranges from 48 to 75 inches. The snake can reach a length of 90 inches in the wild.
In the wild, monocled cobras have a lifespan of 13 to 20 years. A healthy snake can live up to 25 years if it is kept in a clean, superior habitat.
Temperament
The monocled cobra is a hot-tempered, combative snake that, when confronted, is known to spit and strike out. The snake raises its head and spreads its hood as a warning before striking quickly.
In captivity, monocled cobras should be kept alone, with the exception of when they are Breeding. They are solitary, territorial animals. Loud noises and unfavorable tank conditions are known to stress these snakes.
The monocled cobra possesses a poisonous bite, thus it should not be handled.
Monocled Cobras’ residence
The native habitats of the monocled cobra are arid, grassland, or swampy areas of South and Southeast Asia.
The snakes can thrive in a range of settings, although well-wooded agricultural lands or forested areas with rodents (the favored prey of the monocled cobra) are best.
Give the captive snake a warm, humid atmosphere to mimic its native home. A well-ventilated terrarium is the best form of habitat for a monocled cobra.
Case dimensions
A terrarium with at least 40 liters of water should be used to accommodate a single monocled cobra.
The cage should be at least 110 inches across to allow enough of ground space and 20 inches height to accommodate climbing structures because the snake is primarily terrestrial but also enjoys climbing.
Lighting
As long as the captive snakes are exposed to at least eight hours of natural sunshine from a nearby window, UVB illumination is not required for monocled cobras.
If you decide to give your monocled cobra UVB lighting, keep the bulb at least 12 inches away from its entry sites. Set a 12-hour timer for the lightbulb and turn it off at night.
Thermodynamics and Humidity
74–82°F is the perfect temperature range for a monocled cobra enclosure. Two-thirds of the tank’s ambient temperature should be 74°F, while the basking area’s temperature should be 82°F.
The snake can control its internal body temperature by alternating between hot and cool parts of the habitat thanks to the temperature gradient.
Heat the enclosure using a heat lamp or a heat panel, then add a heat pad to the basking area of the tank to raise the temperature there. Utilize a thermometer to check the tank’s temperature.
To simulate the climate in the wild, lower the temperature in the cool area of the tank to 70°F over night.
By placing a bowl of water in the center of the enclosure and spraying the tank once or twice daily, the humidity in the tank can be kept between 50% and 60%. Throughout the day, keep an eye on the humidity with a hygrometer.
To grow and preserve their health, monocled cobras shed their skin. Maintain a minimum of 60% humidity in the tank when the snake is shedding because lower humidity levels make the process painful or uncomfortable for the snake.
Substance and Adornment
Cypress mulch or orchid bark are excellent substrates for a monocled cobra habitat because they absorb waste and control humidity levels by holding onto water. Paper towels are a good low-maintenance substrate choice and are simple to swap out when Cleaning a specific area.
Avoid using materials like sand and mud that are abrasive and difficult to clean.
To mimic the snake’s native habitat, fill the tank with lots of plants and hiding places. Non-toxic, strong plants like ferns, ficus plants, and spider plants all grow tall enough to offer shade to snakes.
The shy monocled cobra spends most of the day hiding. In the warm and cool sides of the enclosure, place caves and plastic snake hides.
To help maintain the warm ambient temperatures and to provide the snake with a place to rest, scatter several large flat rocks throughout the warm area of the tank.
The monocled cobra will sleep in a hide or on the substrate, so no specific bedding is required.
Cleaning
Because the snake possesses a dangerous bite, more caution must be taken when cleaning the monocled cobra’s tank. Placing a barrier in the center of the cage and cleaning the area where the snake isn’t is the safest method for spot-cleaning the tank. Repeat the cleaning procedure on the uncleaned area of the tank when the snake travels to the other section.
Start by removing and reinstalling contaminated substrate components before doing spot cleaning on the enclosure of a monocled cobra. Clean, fresh water should be added after cleaning the water bowl. Every day or whenever you find dirt or excrement in the tank, repeat these steps.
At least once each month, a monocled cobra’s enclosure needs to be thoroughly cleaned. Use tongs or a trap box to carefully take the snake from the tank so that you can thoroughly clean the enclosure. Then, put the snake in a temporary tank while you empty the primary habitat.
Remove the old substrate and clean the enclosure’s interior with water and dish soap. The decorations should be washed in hot, soapy water and then allowed to air dry. When all surfaces are totally dry, replace the substrate and decorations and put the snake back in the tank.
Cobra Monocled Care
Only experienced snake keepers should handle monocled cobras because they are venomous, cautious, and have a history of lashing out when startled. The snakes prefer not to be touched and require a clean environment as well as a nutritious, high-protein feed.
Water and Food
Monocled cobras consume small snakes, fish, and animals in the wild. Feed frozen and thawed mice and rats to captive monocled cobras as a carnivorous diet, with the occasional addition of chicks, quail, hamsters, or gerbils to change things up. Before feeding the snake, make sure all the food has been disposed of humanely because live food can hurt or bite it.
Feed adult snakes one huge mouse or an equivalent-sized mammal for variety each week. Feed newborn monocled cobras two pinky mice each week. Provide clean water in a shallow basin or tray so the snake can readily access it.
Handling
Monocled cobras are aggressive and venomous, therefore you shouldn’t handle them. Use a snake hook, tongs, or protective gloves to keep the snake from biting you if it needs to be handled for a health check or during tank swaps.
Typical Health Problems
The following conditions frequently affect the health of monocled cobras:
Inside and Outside Parasites
A cobra enclosure can become infected with both internal parasites like worms and exterior parasites like ticks from prey as well as from fresh plants and decorations. The signs of parasitic diseases in pet snakes include regurgitation, itching, mouth infections, skin irritation, and respiratory problems. Use over-the-counter drugs suggested by your veterinarian to treat a monocled cobra for parasites. To stop parasites from procreating, empty and sterilize the entire tank.
respiratory illnesses
Bacteria, viruses, and fungi that cause respiratory illnesses are often found in filthy or excessively humid environments. Nasal discharge, mucous, lethargy, wheezing, and appetite loss are signs of respiratory diseases in snakes. For prescriptions to address this medical issue, consult your veterinarian. By keeping an eye on the enclosure’s humidity and venting the tank as needed, you can prevent further respiratory infections.
Breeding
Only professionals are encouraged to breed monocled cobras due to their deadly nature. Follow these instructions to breed a pair of monocled cobras:
- To breed, pick a healthy male and female. Create an 80-gallon breeding cage separately, matching the home tank’s decorations, temperature, and humidity. Place a nest box with a moist substrate, like sphagnum moss, in the aquarium so the female can lay her eggs there.
- Put the male in the breeding tank first, and then add the female.
- Keep the male in the breeding tank for a month while gradually lowering the chilly area’s temperature to 68°F. Feed both snakes a food high in protein in their individual aquariums.
- After a month, introduce the female to the breeding tank. In order to prepare for breeding, the male will stop eating, whereas the female will carry on. After being acquainted, the pair typically needs a few days to breed. 40 days after breeding with the male, the female will lay 12 to 30 eggs in the nest box. Place the nest box into an incubator and make sure it’s around 84°F and 70% humid.
- It will take between 50 and 60 days for the eggs to hatch. As soon as the offspring are born, the parents can be relocated back to their original enclosures because newborn monocled cobras are self-sufficient from birth.
- Once the snakes are six months old, move them to their own individual enclosures and start giving them one full-sized mouse or rat each week. Until then, feed each baby cobra two pinkie mice per week.
How to Choose and Purchase a Monocled Cobra
A monocled cobra typically costs $250. Although the snakes aren’t frequently found in pet stores, some breeders do sell them.
You should check your state’s legislation before purchasing a monocled cobra because some jurisdictions have exotic animal prohibitions due to the danger the snakes offer to the general population. When purchasing a monocled cobra, getting liability insurance for venomous snakes is strongly advised.
Make sure the snake has clear eyes and smooth, shiny scales to determine its health before purchasing. Snakes with hazy eyes, lesions, or black spots that mimic mites should be avoided. Request permission from the breeder to observe the snake feeding so you can be sure it has a strong appetite. Only purchase from an established, skilled, and competent breeder.
