Care Instructions & Species Profile: Viper Boa

A little snake called a viper boa is a native of the moist lowlands, swamps, and forests of New Guinea. These snakes feature triangular heads, blunt faces, and characteristic keeled scales that are noted for their resemblance to Papuan death adders.


Viper boas are non-venomous, but because they require a lot of humidity, they can be a little challenging to manage. There aren’t many of these snakes sold as pets, and nothing is known about how they behave in the wild.

Overview of Viper Boa

Common nameViper boa, New Guinea ground boa, Boa Viper
Scientific nameCandoia aspera
Natural habitatForests, swamps, wet lowlands in New Guinea and some Indonesian islands
adult heightto three feet
typical life span15 or more years
DietCarnivore
Housing3 feet x 2 feet x 1.5 feet enclosure with plenty of floor space. gradient of 78 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit and between 70% and 80% humidity
Experience levelIntermediate

Origin

Native to New Guinea and a few Indonesian islands, the viper boa (Candoia aspera) lives in swamps, woods, plantations, and damp lowlands. These locations frequently undergo seasonal flooding and have lush, humid vegetation.

The viper boa is nocturnal, terrestrial (found on the ground), and spends the most of its time concealed in leaf litter, loose soil, or other detritus. The International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) rates the snake’s wild population as stable.

Manifestation and conduct

The name of this little snake, which resembles a viper, is the viper boa. The snake has a triangular-shaped head, a stocky body, rough-keeled scales, and a blunt nose.

The snake’s color is typically dark, and its body is covered with unique spots. The viper boa is more difficult to spot in the wild thanks to these hues. Typically, the snake’s belly is a pale cream or tan color.

Males and females can easily be distinguished because males are smaller and have longer, more pointed spurs.

Papuan death adders and boa vipers have similar appearances, however the two species have differing head forms and markings. Some viper boas have bands rather than blotches, and they can even have vivid red, gold, and orange coloring. Rare are color morphs that were selectively bred.

Size and Duration

The tail of an adult viper boa, which can reach a length of 3 feet, makes up less than 10% of the snake’s overall length. Males have a height of 16 inches, while females are 24 inches.

Viper boas can live in captivity for up to 20 years with the proper care and surroundings. The longevity of this species in the wild is not well understood.

Temperament

Boa Viper that have been trapped in the wild are hostile, easily stressed, and uneasy around people. Captive-bred viper boas are usually calm and even-tempered. These snakes can be handled briefly and rarely bite if properly socialized from an early age.

This species hunts at night because it is nocturnal. The snakes spend the most of the day underground in the substrate. These snakes enjoy soaking in water and are skilled swimmers.

Due to their territorial nature, viper boas should be housed separately to avoid conflict. The snakes often conceal or ball up when under stress or in danger.

keeping viper snakes

In New Guinea’s humid and wet regions, viper boas flourish. These snakes are acclimated to lush foliage and soft soil and frequently reside in woods, moist lowlands, and swamps.

The viper boa will live a long, happy, and healthy life if its natural habitat is replicated. Purchase a terrarium with a large amount of floor area. Maintain humidity in the enclosure, add vegetation, and create a temperature gradient.

Case dimensions

A terrarium that is at least 3 feet by 2 feet by 1.5 feet in size is needed for adult boa viper.

These snakes require far more floor area than vertical space because they are terrestrial and hardly ever climb. The terrarium should still have enough height to support a deep substrate, though.

Instead of a wooden enclosure, choose one made of glass or plastic because wood rots when exposed to excessive humidity.

Lighting

Since viper boas are nocturnal snakes, UVB illumination is not necessary. Use a low-wattage bulb and provide 12 hours of light per day to mimic the natural day-night cycle. To guarantee that the light cycle is constant, install a timer.

Another option is natural light, but make sure the enclosure is never exposed to direct sunlight. The temperature will be impacted by strong sunshine, which will also make the snake agitated, lethargic, or sickly.

Thermodynamics and Humidity

Since viper boas have cold blood, their enclosure should have both cool and hot areas so they can move about to adjust their internal body temperature.

The temperature inside the enclosure should range from 78 to 80 degrees, with the hotter area being around 85 degrees.  The temperature shouldn’t fall below 75°F at night.

To maintain the heated zone at the proper temperature without interfering with the lights or placing the snake at risk of thermal burns, an under-tank heating pad with a thermostat control is suitable.

Ideally, the humidity will range from 70% to 80%. To maintain high humidity levels, mist the enclosure daily, and add living plants (a bioactive arrangement). To avoid shedding issues, you should also offer humid hides, which are containers with substrate that retains moisture.

Increase ventilation if the humidity rises to or exceeds 80% by using a hygrometer to measure humidity levels. The substrate should never be waterlogged, but damp to the touch.

See more: 20 Pets Are Friendly Snakes for Beginning Pet Snakes

Substance and Adornment

Because they are flexible, soft, generally accessible, and effectively retain moisture, cypress mulch, coconut husk, and potting soil are excellent substrates. To replicate the viper boa’s native environment, do not line the enclosure with abrasive items like gravel. Instead, scatter sterile leaf litter over the ground.

If you want the snake to be able to burrow correctly, the substrate needs to be at least 3 inches thick.

To make viper boas more comfortable, provide them with lots of hiding places. Create hiding places with plants, driftwood, slate, and cork bark. Small ficus, scindapsus, fern, and spider plants are examples of suitable living plants. Branches are not required as boa viper don’t frequently climb.

Make sure the enclosure has a water bowl big enough for the snake to soak in. Ensure that the dish is reachable and stable.

Cleaning

Diseases can be avoided by keeping the viper boa’s enclosure clean. Spot cleaning the enclosure on a regular basis will help you get rid of waste, uneaten food, shed skin, and dirty substrate.

When a month, thoroughly clean the enclosure. Replace the substrate and clean the walls, base, and ornaments of the enclosure with warm water and a disinfectant safe for reptiles. During the deep cleaning, the viper boa should be taken out and maintained in a different enclosure.

Never use harsh chemicals like bleach because they are extremely toxic and dangerous to snakes.

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Viper Boa Care

The greatest reptile caretakers for viper boas are knowledgeable and experienced. These snakes are cautious and sensitive to stress, and they require high humidity, which a novice hobbyist may find difficult to maintain.

Water and Food

Viper Boa Care
Viper Boa Care

In the wild, viper boas are carnivores that consume a variety of foods, such as small mammals, reptiles, amphibians, and fish. These snakes should be fed fully thawed rodents in captivity, with feeder fish and lizards periodically provided as a treat.

Juveniles should be given a pinky mouse once a week to support their growth, whereas adults with slow metabolisms only require one rodent every two to three weeks.

Place food inside the enclosure using soft-tipped tongs, making sure that each serving is no wider than the snake’s widest point. Avoid live prey since it can harm viper boas, contains parasites, and is challenging to keep. Because these snakes are nocturnal and hunt at night, provide food when it is dark.

If the snake feces within the bowl, properly clean it with a disinfectant safe for reptiles and change the water every day.

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Handling

If a viper boa was born in captivity and has grown up being touched by people, it can be handled. To remove the snake from its container, use a hook, and carry it by its entire body weight.

Viper boas should not be handled if they are shedding or have recently eaten, and you should always wash your hands before and after handling one. Boa Viper that have been captured in the wild should not be handled because they are frequently hostile and unaccustomed to people.

Limit handling sessions to 15 minutes or less. Boa Viper can become nervous, frightened, and even hostile as a result of excessive handling. Despite being non-venomous, these snakes’ bites hurt due to their keen fangs. To avoid infection, clean bite wounds with antiseptic wipes right away.

Viper boas are startled by abrupt movements and loud noises. Never let these snakes wander freely over the floor; always handle them in calm, peaceful settings.

Typical Health Problems

Viper boas frequently suffer from mouth rot, respiratory infections, skin conditions, and internal parasites. Snakes rarely exhibit overt symptoms of illness, so be cautious and have frequent physicals.

Breeding

Though not impossible, it is not easy to breed viper boas in captivity. These snakes often give birth to 10–20 young before reaching sexual maturity at three to four years old.

The procedures for breeding a pair of viper boas are as follows:

  1. In order to get ready for reproducing, the snakes must first go through a cooling-off stage called brumation. Start lowering the enclosure’s temperature to 70°F at the beginning of November, then adjust the night-day cycle to represent winter (around nine hours of light per day). Feeding should only occur once every three to four weeks.
  2. Increase the temperature gradually once again, supply additional food, and add 12 hours of light per day in January.
  3. Introduce the male to the enclosure housing the female. Make sure the terrarium is cozy, has lots of hiding places, a sizable water bowl, and a soft substrate. To lessen the likelihood of aggressiveness, males and females must eat properly and be in good health.
  4. Separate the two if they start to act aggressively or exhibit symptoms of distress, then try again later.
  5. Female viper boas who are pregnant will bloat up and stop eating. The gestation cycle for these snakes normally lasts seven to nine months, and they give birth to live young.
  6. Once the female boa viper has given birth, remove the young right away.
  7. Baby-proof your 5-gallon enclosures with a temperature gradient, a water dish, a little hide, and a substrate made of paper towels. Present little pinky mice

To give females time to recoup and regain a healthy body weight, just breed them once every two years. The odds of success can be increased by introducing multiple males (up to four) into the female’s enclosure, but the enclosure needs to be roomy.

Males must also be constantly watched since they may engage in aggressive wrestling activity. Remove the other snakes after the female has selected and partnered with a male.

How to Choose and Purchase a Viper Boa

Depending on their age, color, size, sex, and whether they were wild-caught or captive-bred, viper boas range in price from $150 to $300. These snakes can be purchased from trustworthy breeders or online reptile retailers, like:

These snakes can be kept without a license, but wild-caught viper boas are more difficult to maintain than captive-bred viper boas since they are aggressive and sensitive to stress.

Bright eyes, stocky bodies, and vibrant colour characterize healthy boa viper. Avoid snakes that are skinny and dull, or those appear drowsy.

 

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