The African house snake is a medium-sized, non-venomous snake with light stripes or spots all over its body. It is brown in color. The snake is indigenous to sub-Saharan Africa and typically lives close to settlements.
Due to their ease of maintenance and minimal Housing requirements, African house snakes make excellent first pets for novice reptile enthusiasts. To keep these snakes healthy and content, use this approach to build the ideal living habitat.
Overview of African House Snake
| Common name | African house snake |
|---|---|
| Scientific name | Boaedon fuliginosus |
| Natural habitat | Grassland, tropical forests, shrubland, and near villages or towns in sub-Saharan Africa. |
| Adult size | 2–5 feet |
| Average lifespan | 15–20 years |
| Diet | Frozen or live rodents, lizards, or small birds |
| Housing | The minimum enclosure dimension is 24 by 18 by 18. gradient of 70-90°F and 30%-50% relative humidity |
| Experience level | Beginner |
Origin
Boaedon fuliginosus, sometimes known as the African house snake, is a native of sub-Saharan Africa. The snake is found in several nations in Africa in shrubland, grasslands, marshes, savannahs, tropical forests, and more recently close to settlements and towns.
The snakes live in close proximity to people so they may gorge on rodents drawn to human garbage. Because they live anywhere where there is a plentiful supply of prey, African house snakes are extremely adaptable to a variety of Thermodynamics and Humidity levels. The African house snake is a common species that is not in danger of extinction.
Manifestation and conduct
The African house snake is a slim, medium-sized snake that ranges in color from a lighter shade of brown to a darker shade of chocolate. The snake’s body may have very subtle markings or stripes.
The tails of male African house snakes are broader and longer than those of females. Adult females can potentially be twice as big as adult males in terms of size. Additionally, the female’s tail tapers more sharply.
Size and Duration
At full maturity, African house snakes can grow to a length of 2 to 5 feet. Females can grow up to 4 feet in length, but males rarely exceed 2 to 3 feet in length.
If the enclosure is maintained in the proper temperature and humidity ranges, the snake is well-cared for, and it is provided a nutritious diet, it will live for 15 to 20 years in captivity. A snake purchased from a reliable breeder will also be healthier and live longer.
Temperament
The majority of African house snakes are quiet and non-venomous. Snakes that are young or new to your enclosure might bite because it’s an unusual place to them, but after they get used to it, they’ll probably stop.
Although it is possible, it is not advised to house this species alongside other snakes of the same species. Because of their aggressive feeding behavior, these snakes occasionally devour or hurt one another when they are feeding. When kept together, male and female snakes will reproduce all year long without having any rest, thus they should be housed separately.
Although juveniles may be uneasy and jumpy, African house snakes can be handled. When picked up from behind the head, snakes may bite.
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African House Snakes’ habitat
In the wild, African house snakes can be found in a variety of settings, such as dense woods, grasslands, and deserts. The bushes next to houses are another typical place to find snakes. As long as the temperature is kept warm, these snakes can live in a variety of cages, however natural enclosures are advised to replicate the snakes’ native habitat.
Keep these snakes in a vivarium or terrarium constructed of wood, plexiglass, or glass with lots of ventilation, no small holes, and a solid top that prevents escape.
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Embedded Size
The minimum cage size for adult African house snakes is 24 inches by 18 inches by 18 inches, however larger enclosures are preferable. Because these snakes like to climb frequently, increase the height of the enclosure to accommodate branches.
Keep hatchlings and young house snakes in a larger enclosure or a 10-gallon tank. When several snakes are kept together, such as during Breeding or if two females are kept together, the enclosure should be larger.
Lighting
Despite occasionally moving during the day, African house snakes are nocturnal creatures that require a natural day-to-night lighting cycle to maintain their circadian rhythm. UVB is not required for these snakes to utilize the calcium in their meals. Nevertheless, UVB should be included in the enclosure to replicate the snakes’ natural habitat.
To give the snake somewhere to hide when it requires less or no light, mount a UV tube with a brightness gradient on the ceiling at the back of the enclosure. Maintain a lighting cycle that corresponds to the local day/night cycle.
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Temperature and Humidity
Although it can adjust to small temperature variations, an African house snake needs warm temperatures to survive and stay healthy. In order to help the snake maintain its body temperature, provide a temperature gradient in the enclosure.
On the cool side of the enclosure, maintain a constant temperature of 70°F, while raising it to 85–90°F on the warm side (sometimes referred to as the basking side). Put a ceramic basking lamp on the side of the enclosure that receives more heat, and use one thermometer on each side to measure the temperature to create the gradient.
If necessary, add a heating pad beneath the substrate to warm the basking side. Maintain the temperature around 80°F, which can be done either by using an automatic heating mat that shuts off when the temperature gets too high or by using a thermostat placed on top of the bedding.
To induce a decline in heat to simulate the overnight temperatures in the wild, turn off the basking lamp for 12 hours at night. To stop the snake from accessing the bulbs and injuring itself, place them outside the enclosure.
To keep the African house snake’s skin moist, particularly when shearing, the humidity in the enclosure should be between 30% and 50%. By misting the cage, maintaining a bowl of water inside, and including a moist hide covered in sphagnum moss for the snake to use while shedding, you can maintain a constant humidity level.
Install a hygrometer inside the enclosure to monitor and maintain constant humidity levels; low or fluctuating humidity levels will harm the snake’s health. It’s critical to have a well-ventilated enclosure to stop the growth of bacteria and fungi caused by dampness.
Substance and Adornment
To keep the African house snake content and to make the cage simple to clean, add a high-quality substrate. To enable the snake to burrow, add a thick (several inches) layer of aspen or beechwood chips.
Paper towels, newspapers, mud and clay mixtures, or reptile bark are additional substrate alternatives. As a result of their quick metabolisms and frequent feces, snakes should not be kept on any substrate that is challenging to maintain.
The African house snake doesn’t require a lavishly designed enclosure; just a few essential accents will do. Use big, flat boulders and tree branches to provide climbing and basking areas on the enclosure’s hot and cold sides. If the temperature is too high, keep an eye on the heat coming from the basking rocks to keep the snake from scorching its belly.
The snake need a lot of hiding spots, including shady locations to retreat from the sun throughout the day. Put plants for partial shade and hides, tunnels, and huge ornaments for shady spots inside the enclosure.
Cleaning
To keep the African house snake healthy and to prevent disease, keep the enclosure clean. Spot clean as frequently as you can, ideally every day, by taking out the snake’s shed of feces, food scraps, and skin.
Every four weeks or so, remove the snake carefully from the enclosure and place it in a ventilated tank or container. This will allow you to thoroughly clean the enclosure. Before sprinkling the enclosure with a disinfectant suited for reptiles or a solution of water and vinegar, remove all of the substrate, decorations, and hides.
Before washing the decorations in the same way as the enclosure, rinse it and wipe it down. After everything is totally dry, put the decorations back in the enclosure.
at order to allow the snake enough time to warm up at the basking temperature before the chilly nighttime temps arrive, clean the enclosure during the day.
Care for African house snakes
African house snakes make good pets for novice reptile enthusiasts since they require little maintenance. Like any other reptile, the snakes have particular feeding, watering, and Handling needs, but beginners may easily supply these needs.
Water and Food
Give a live or defrosted mouse or rat that is no bigger than the snake’s thickest part to an African house snake. Depending on the demands of the snake, an adult should be fed either once a week or once every other week.
Small birds, geckos, bats, lizards, and frogs are some more options for snakes if they don’t want to eat rodents because they are opportunistic feeders.
Pinkie mice, either alive or defrosted, should be fed to young African house snakes once or twice a week, while thawed prey has less of a chance of biting or otherwise hurting the snakes.
Because they are aggressive feeders, these snakes could bite you when you put the prey in the enclosure or when you handle it if it smells like the prey.
Always provide a sizable water bowl on the cooler side of the enclosure so the snake may drink from it and cool off as necessary. The water will be used by this snake to aid in shed.
Handling
It is simple to handle and doesn’t appear to mind being held by an adult African house snake. Always wash your hands before touching a snake since, despite being generally gentle, they occasionally bite. This is to prevent the snake from mistaking your hand for prey.
Because they have more energy, are jumpier, and have a propensity to bite more frequently than adult snakes, hatchling and juvenile African house snakes are more challenging to handle. Young snakes should be handled gently to make them accustomed to being held; as they mature, they are likely to become calmer.
The snake should not be handled behind the back of its head. These snakes, especially the juvenile ones, tend to leap up frequently, so use caution when opening the top of the enclosure.
Typical Health Problems
Like any other reptile, African house snakes are susceptible to specific health issues that shorten their lifespan or cause them pain. The following common ailments in reptiles should be noted by new owners, who should seek veterinarian care if any of them are suspected.
- Overfeeding is a condition where the snake is given excessive food by the caregiver. These snakes are voracious feeders, therefore if food is available, they will consume more than they require. If you think the snake is consuming more than it needs to, consult a veterinarian to find out how much.
- Mouth rot is a disorder brought on by unclean living quarters, stress, or wounds from live prey. Excessive mucous and mouth swelling or redness are signs of mouth rot. Veterinary attention should be sought if mouth rot is suspected.
- These snakes frequently suffer from mites and parasites, which are spread by their prey or unsanitary living conditions. Regular visits to the vet will lessen the possibility that the snake may contract parasites and mites.
Breeding
As soon as a male and female are present in the cage together, African house snakes can reproduce easily in captivity. The snakes should only be bred when the male is at least two years old and the female is at least three. Keep the following in mind to guarantee a healthy breed:
- To avoid overbreeding and to allow the snakes time to rest, separate the two snakes during the colder months.
- The snake will only be fertile for roughly four years if the female lays three or four clutches every year.
- The man will eat less while mating. This is not a problem, however if the snake doesn’t eat, keep feeding it and take away the prey after a day.
- About a month after mating, the female will go through a pre-lay shed and will consume less during this time. The female will lay eggs in the following week or two, according to the shed.
- To provide the female with a location to lay the eggs, add a nesting box filled with sphagnum moss to the enclosure. The eggs won’t survive if there isn’t a nesting box since the snake will use the water bowl instead.
- During a clutch, the female will lay anywhere from 8 to 20 eggs. When the eggs are laid, incubate them in a moist substrate at a temperature of 75 to 84°F.
- After 60 days, the first eggs will hatch, and the hatchlings will prompt the rest to hatch.
- The eating habits of hatchlings are aggressive. To stop the snakes from devouring one another at feeding time, separate the hatchlings and place them in small containers.
- After the first shed, which occurs within a week after hatching, feed the young hatchlings defrosted pinkie mice.
Selection and Purchase of an African House Snake
Costs for African house snakes range from $40 to $100. To ensure a healthy pet, buy these snakes from reliable breeders. When kept in cage, wild snakes may be more agitated and contagious.
Snakes are prolific breeders, which accounts for their abundance both in the wild and in the pet trade. When acquiring a snake, keep an eye out for symptoms of sickness, such as a red or swollen mouth, flaky or red skin, and cloudy eyes.
