This stunning herp is among the most sought-after by amphibian keepers and is a member of the enormous family of poison dart frogs (Dendrobatidae). These stunning frogs, which come in up to 30 different color variations, are a wonderful addition to the collection of any knowledgeable herptile fan.
It’s crucial to note that we mentioned “experienced.” Because strawberry darts are such delicate creatures, we only advise keeping them if you have a proven track record with amphibians.
These frogs are equally as captivating and beautiful if you’re willing to accept the task. See our detailed care instructions and species profile below.
A Strawberry Poison Dart Frog: What Is It?
Oophaga pumilio, often known as the strawberry poison dart frog, is a resident of much of Central America. It often lives in low-lying, forested places and is widespread in Nicaragua, Costa Rica, and Panama.
Regarding That Poison
It is extremely venomous, just like all dendrobatidae. It’s not the most deadly member of the family; that dubious distinction belongs to the golden poison frog, arguably the most lethal creature ever discovered, who is never invited to Frog Christmas.
The strawberry dart, however, contains more than enough poison to kill an adult human in a matter of minutes if consumed. Their main line of defense against predators is poison, which they get from the insects they eat. Bright colors in nature often indicate that something is not a good idea to eat, and this frog is no exception.
You won’t die just by touching a strawberry dart, but we’ll talk about how to handle these deadly beauties later. Of course, if you touch the frog and then eat a sandwich with the same hand, the situation changes.
If you accidentally touch the frog, immediately wash your hands with soap and water before handling anything else, and you shouldn’t have any negative side effects.
Scarcity & Popularity
These poison dart variations are some of the most common in the United States. This is in part because of their extraordinary variety of color morphs. There may be up to 30 color morphs known, according to estimates, albeit unusual morphs may be more expensive. As the name suggests, strawberry red is the most common hue for these creatures.
Sadly, these amphibians are occasionally illegally kidnapped and traded, much like almost all animals that humans want to keep as pets. This is particularly true for unusual color morphs since they might sell for astronomically high prices. Be mindful.
The good news is that purchasing a strawberry dart lawfully and knowing its ethical source is possible in the United States. As always, finding a reliable breeder or vendor, doing your research, and taking all the other precautions we advise all herp aficionados to take when purchasing a new pet are all important.
Short Facts
“Blue jeans” is another common name for the strawberry poison dart frog.
Oophaga pumilio, scientific name
Adult size 1″ to 2.5″
10-15+ years for life
Pinhead insects, diet ants, fruit flies, and springtails
Size of tank: 20″ x 12″ x 10″ or 10 gallons
Temperature & humidity: 70°F at night, 80–82°F during the day; humidity: 75–80% increasing to 100% during daily misting
Alternatives that are frequently used include “green and black,” “dyeing,” “bumblebee,” and “reticulated.”
*Some color variants are given distinctive names; in the US, the “blue jeans” variety may be the most sought-after.
Care Guide for Strawberry Poison Dart Frog
Darts are particular about their substrate, and there is little room for error with heating requirements. They also need a lot of shade. Caring for a strawberry dart involves research and effort.
Strawberry darts like to have their tank sprayed twice daily, and novice amphibian keepers frequently forget to do this. Forgetting to do this is one of the main reasons these frogs aren’t advised for beginners – a cat will tell you when it’s thirsty, but a frog won’t.
Tank specifications
We recommend 20′′ x 12′′ x 10′′, although tiny differences don’t matter too much. Strawberry darts are more than happy in a typical 10-gallon tank.
The primary drawback of smaller tanks is that they might not have enough room to add all the furniture they require for a comfortable environment, but an oversized tank is more difficult to maintain the desired humidity level.
Heating and Lighting
Although these frogs may survive at room temperature without any heating components, it’s still a good idea to keep an eye on the temperature in the space where the tank will be placed.
Lighting can also assist sustain live plants, which the frog will adore (as long as they’re healthy! ), so it might make a big impact in the tank if you’re averaging 70-80F in summer, as it’ll likely get too cold in winter.
Along with failing to spray the tank, forgetting to offer appropriate light and darkness is a common rookie mistake. This will stress the frog out and could eventually make it ill. These frogs have an even photoperiod – they require around 12 hours each of light and darkness.
Humidity
Except for when you sprinkle the frog’s tank twice daily, in the morning and evening, humidity should be maintained at about 75-80%.
Misting is the best way to maintain the tank at the ideal humidity, and high humidity is much less damaging than low humidity. Missing one misting won’t kill the frog, and if you find that the tank tends to remain extremely humid after misting, you may only need to do it once per day (nighttime is best).
Amphibians absorb water via their skin, and because our tap water is chlorinated, spraying newly poured tap water into the tank is a fantastic method to expose your pet to harmful chlorine. Using water that won’t hurt the frog is equally crucial.
There are a few techniques to make sure the water you use is safe for frogs:
Use spring water; as it hasn’t undergone the same treatment as tap water, it is completely safe for misting.
Purchase a dechlorination device; you can find these in most pet stores that offer fish or herps, or you may get one online; the dechlorination time will vary depending on the equipment; read the instructions.
The cheapest approach, 2 days of standing time will ensure that the chlorine has totally evaporated, and one evaporation session will give you enough water for numerous mistings. The gases in tap water naturally evaporate — it just takes a bit.
Substrate
Young strawberry poison frogs can get by with moist paper towels, but as they become older, they get more picky about their substrate, therefore you should offer 2-3′′ of substrate that includes:
Coconut coir is an excellent growing medium for mosses and any other plants you want to keep in the tank because it is inexpensive and simple to use.
Orchid bark, which is readily accessible in many pet stores and online, offers excellent drainage.
Tropical mosses are even better, but many herp enthusiasts find them difficult to maintain. It’s better to have a healthy, plain substrate than a problematic but lovely covering. The frog will appreciate the humidity this keeps, and it adds a gorgeous touch to your tank.
Large gravel pieces are simple and inexpensive to use as a drainage layer, which should be 1-2 inches thick and protected by window screening. Without this layer, the substrate will tumble down and obstruct the drainage layer’s openings.
Furnishings
Because they prefer shelter, strawberry poison frogs become anxious when they feel constantly exposed.
If you can have healthy plants in your terrarium, these will also give fantastic cover and help create a natural environment for the frog. Plus, your terrarium will look amazing. Coconut husks are a terrific option to provide some shade with little upkeep.
Poison dart frogs have a well-documented preference for bromeliads, and these plants are simple to manage as long as you provide a significant drainage layer below the substrate. Small bromeliads are a fantastic choice for a poison dart frog terrarium, especially if you’re considering reproducing them.
Large leaves (such as those from oak and magnolia) are also an excellent addition because they protect the frog and can support live food.
Again, if you don’t feel comfortable keeping a full ecosystem in your tank, it’s better to choose a low-maintenance option than spending money on a bunch of tropical plants that keep getting sick and dying, which is expensive and doesn’t benefit your frog.
Be careful not to add any deep water features, as these frogs can’t swim, but you should provide a very shallow bowl of water so the frog can wash whenever it wants. This also helps maintain ambient humidity.
How Do They Feed?
Because they are such little creatures, strawberry darts have very few options for food, but fruit flies are a plentiful option that they will happily eat.
Other choices include of:
- miniature crickets
- Termites
- Aphids
- Springtails
Even the most precise terrarium diet won’t completely match what they find in the wild, so it’s recommended that you dust their food with a mineral supplement once per week, especially for younger frogs.
We advise you to check for leftover, uneaten food when you go to feed your frog. If you notice your frog frequently has leftover food after 3 days, it may be agitated or ill. These frogs should be fed every 2-3 days.
See more: Fire-Bellied Toad Care Guide: Diet, Tank Setup, Lifespan & Handling
How to Maintain Their Health
These frogs want a clean habitat, therefore any issues that can’t be fixed by making the environment better (by raising the humidity, for example) could need professional assistance.
Tank maintenance
If you’re using real plants and mosses, keep a watch out for distorted or sickly plants – your frog won’t appreciate them, and they should be removed or trimmed as necessary. Cut leaves should also be removed and replaced weekly. You should spot-clean the tank every 1-2 days.
Clean, hot water should be used for spot cleaning the tank’s walls; ideally, this water should be dechlorinated because chlorine will lower the humidity levels in the tank. After cleaning, clean paper towels should be used to dry the surfaces.
Every few months, thorough cleaning should be performed, including the following:
- A different substrate
- the drainage layer should be cleaned
- sanitizing furniture
The easiest way to clean the walls thoroughly is with hot water and elbow grease. You may also use a solution of 10 parts water to 1 part bleach.
upkeep of the lighting
new plants can be added if desired
See more: 17 Popular Frog Pets for Beginners
Veterinarian Visits
It is essential to locate a nearby veterinarian who specializes in exotic pets, especially amphibians, before purchasing a strawberry poison dart frog.
Strawberry darts can become anxious and ill due to incredibly mild environment changes, and there is nothing worse than not being able to identify the issue as your pet suffers. Knowing a reputable veterinarian is absolutely crucial for herp aficionados.
What Is the Lifespan of Strawberry Poison Dart Frogs?
It is unknown how long they generally live in the wild, although in captivity they typically live between 10 and 15 years.
If properly cared for, strawberry darts are among the most satisfying long-term amphibian companions, with lifespans exceeding 15 years not uncommon and some reaching over 20 years.
Behavior of the Strawberry Poison Dart Frog
Mixing wild and farm-raised frogs isn’t advised as they’re acclimated to different surroundings and may become antagonistic toward one other. Captive-raised strawberry darts are normally far more docile and hardy than wild-caught frogs.
As strawberry darts are extremely difficult to produce in captivity, captive-bred strawberry dart frogs are frequently more difficult to locate than captured individuals, but they’re more likely to have been obtained responsibly and adapt to terrarium circumstances much more readily.
They like shade and shelter, and the ideal time to see them is while they’re contentedly feeding. These frogs aren’t aggressive; they’re actually fairly shy.
Handling
There are two primary reasons why you shouldn’t handle poison dart frogs unless it is absolutely necessary.
These amphibians have spent generations developing a distinctive color scheme that says, “don’t touch me,” therefore it’s best to respect that. These shy, retiring creatures don’t enjoy interaction with people or any other animals except from other poison darts or their prey.
The less you handle them, the better; if you must handle your frog, wear gloves and wash your hands thoroughly after handling. Poison dart frogs are extremely poisonous and contain enough poison to kill you in minutes if you eat them (which you won’t).
Bonus reason: they’re tiny, they jump, and for such brightly colored creatures, they’re very, very good at hiding. If you take your frog out of the tank to show it to a friend, there’s a strong chance it will just hop out of your hands and disappear.
Don’t handle them unless you’re cleaning the tank, and try to make it quick and gentle; this will result in death for the frog and a significant health danger for everyone in your home.
Appearance
look of the strawberry poison dart frog
Similar to the majority of frogs in the dendrobatidae family, strawberry poison darts are small and vividly colored.
Size
Most captive-bred frogs are between 0.5′′ and 1′′, and it is highly uncommon for these frogs to exceed 1.5′′.
Despite being small, they are noticeable in a terrarium because of their brilliant color displays.
Colors
Their iconic strawberry-red coloring is among the most attractive of all frogs, and the 30-odd color variants only increase the frog’s allure among herp fans, making strawberry darts among the most popular of all poison darts.
Well-known variants include blue or cream-colored legs and feet, and many frogs also have black dots on their back. Typically, a strawberry dart will be mostly scarlet.
The underside frequently has an iridescent shine and may even be partially tinted blue.
If you’re fortunate enough to come across a rare strawberry dart morph, make sure it came from a trustworthy breeder or seller before purchasing it.
Strawberry Poison Dart Frog Breeding
Experienced breeders have tried for years to convince strawberry darts to reproduce in captivity, but even the tiniest issue with their surroundings can ruin it all.
If you want to breed strawberry darts, read here.
Eggs are laid in clusters of 3–10, and if even one of them hatches, you’ve done well.
The frogs will go into semi-dormancy in October and November and won’t need as much misting or feeding, so reduce the light levels throughout those months until late March or April.
You’ll need to mist the tank 2-4 times each day to maintain high humidity. They’re used to heavy rains when mating after a long, slow winter. Start misting heavily in April.
Keep bromeliads; a film canister will do, but the frogs instinctively know that these plants are where they naturally lay their eggs.
The most effective breeders frequently split strawberry dart froglets into separate terrariums. Tadpoles will be cared for by parents in the early stages, but after they develop into froglets, the young seek separation.
What Is The Price Of Strawberry Poison Dart Frogs?
Make sure you’re buying your frog from a trustworthy breeder or seller, and never base your decision on the lowest price. Strawberry darts typically between $25 and $70, but unusual morphs may cost substantially more.
Summary
Setting up your terrarium properly is a crucial first step, and understanding the frogs’ daily needs is the next. Strawberry poison dart frogs are incredibly rewarding pets, but they need their creature comforts. If you give them it, they’ll thrive for many years.
These lovely frogs are the ideal choice if you have expertise caring for amphibians and are eager to try something new.
